cyprus food stuffs > History, Traditions & Myths > Eating Habits II
Shevket Direktor
The Turkish Cypriot cuisine has a rich variety of nutrients and dishes. It slightly differs from other cuisines both in ingredients and in the way of cooking. Before certifying these differences, dishes must be classified. As it is known, people have three basic needs in order to survive. These are: nutrition, clothing and sheltering. In its simplest form, eating involves getting the basic nutrients that the body needs. The style of nutrition differs in various communities. The basic elements that constitute these differences are:
1. The characteristics of the land where people live
2. The customs and traditions
3. The Religious beliefs.
Nutrition is also closely related to the characteristics of the land where the community lives. Especially communities, which live far away from the mainland, such as ours, are more affected by the geographical location. Cyprus, being an island, is quite isolated. It doesn’t have many exchanges of products with other communities; therefore it has to be self-sufficient. As a result, islands try to benefit from nature to a maximum level. A saying used among the Turkish Cypriots says: “let a cow into your garden, but never an islander”.
People try to use the most abundant and cheap foodstuffs they can get hold of available. The plants, which grow in their environment, are reproduced. Animals are breed. Edible natural plants and animals are used extensively. This still happens in rural areas. Based on the reasons mentioned above, every society’s nutrition style is unique. As a result, there is a different cuisine in every region.
The whole world is today under the influence of globalisation. All communities increasingly open up and share with other communities. External dynamics outweigh internal dynamics. The Turkish Cypriot traditional cuisine is also affected. The on-the-go lifestyle has been encouraging the fast-food industry. The corner shops of fried liver and traditional breakfast are replaced with fast food stands. People do not eat kebab for breakfast anymore.
The structure of society does not allow gaps. Shops, which are not functional, are extinct or destroyed and replaced by fast food stands. Burgers are a main part of meals.
There are not many documents describing the Turkish Cypriot cuisine during this period of rapid change. There has been little research and some books have been published. However, a comprehensive study is yet to come, therefore many dishes are forgotten.
There are not many gastronomy experts in our community. Those who know what a good meal is, are getting fewer and fewer. Many people say: “The best dishes are the ones that our mothers cook”. Bon appetite to everyone.
Mustafa Gokceoglu
TURKISH CYPRIOT CUISINE
INTRODUCTION
Nowadays nutrition is one of the indicators of a society’s level of welfare. This text is about eating habits, wild plants used in cooking, kitchen accessories, recipes and the standardization of these recipes in the Turkish Cypriot community.
Although the island of Cyprus is small, recipes differ in different regions. In evaluating these differences, the technique of those who are close is preferred to the technique of those who are far away.
A community’s cuisine is very important since it directly affects the healthiness of the community. NUTRITION
Nutrition is not only a biological process, but also a sociological and psychological one, which depends on culture. Therefore it varies in different communities. Geographical locations also affect nutrition. How people choose their food, how they prepare it, when and where they eat depend on the habits of their society.
The sum of all these habits makes up the nutrition culture of a community and differs depending on the region, the economic situation and education.
Communities affect each other culturally through music, television programmes and films, consequently affecting also nutritional habits. Turkish Cypriot cuisine has influences from the Venetians, Genoese, Arabs, Italians, British and Greek Cypriots, resembling also the Turkish cuisine greatly.
NATURAL VEGETATION
Scrub grows area where Turkish Cypriots live, except for the Mesarya plain (Mesaoria), because of the Mediterranean climate of the island. A part of Pentadhaktylos (the Five-finger Mountains) is covered with forests.
These forests have oak, pine and juniper trees.
CLIMATE
Summers are hot and dry, whereas winters are warm and slightly rainy. In the highlands, the annual rainfall is 1015 mm, whereas the rainfall in lowlands does not exceed 510 mm.
AGRICULTURE and INDUSTRY
Oranges, mandarins, lemons, tobacco, cotton, olives, grapes and wine are the exported products of the Turkish Cypriot community . The majority of the community are farmers and cattle-breeders. There are more than 1000 companies in the Turkish Cypriot Community. Various production facilities and private companies provide jobs. 40% of the workers work in the agricultural sector, out of which25% are women. There are 47000 donkeys, 1000 horses, 6000 mules, 33000 cattle, 468000 goats, 102000 pigs and 3808000 poultry in the Turkish Cypriot community . One thousand fishermen catch 1300 tonnes of fish every year in 300 small ships. Tourism is a good source of income.
Before Christ fishery was an important part of life on the island, as excavations have proved. .
In these excavations, fishing rods from the Neolithic period (BC 7000-4000) were found in Çatalköy (Ayios Epiktitos) and Kastros close to Karpaz from the same period. This evidence proves that fishery was as important as cattle breeding, agriculture and textile in that period.
In the recent years , people who lived close to the sea, ate more fish and seafood than the people in the inland, who ate salted or smoked fish, and canned fish.
Since there is not enough fish and seafood, some fish and seafood is imported.
In the Turkish Cypriot community orfo, lahor, mullet, red mullet, izgaro, sokan, voppa, sea bream, melano, sargoz, red sea bream, some sea bass, eel, vadi, dragonet, octopus and sibya are common.
In the past, in periods when it rained a lot, fish were believed to be affected by the rain and were situated and reproduced along the coastline. However, during dry periods, the rivers which carried foodstuffs from the inland into the sea dried up, preventing fish from reproducing.
I- CUSTOMS AND TRADITIONS
Turkish Cypriots go out often. They specially value weddings. The bride wears a white wedding dress. White means chastidy. . Traditionally, there would be a celebration for one day and one night in the groom’s house. Then, there would be another celebration in the bride’s house for the groom and bride, and the celebration would last one week. During the wedding, the guests were offered food and drinks, whereas the guests gave money to the couple. (The money is pinned on the couple’s clothes, a tradition that still exists ). . The couple’s families gave the newly weds valuable jewellery, a tradition also still in practice up until today.
Circumcision ceremonies are also important for the Turkish Cypriot community. During these celebrations, food and drinks are served. The guests give presents and money to the circumcised boy. The circumcision dress is white. Before the procedure, the boy is taken around on a horse, while drum and shrill pipe are played. During the procedure, the boy is given a piece of Turkish Cypriot delight to get his mind off the pain. Based on an old belief, if the mother rubs a rolling-stick during this instant, then the boy’s pain is believed to lessen.
Turkish Cypriots also have certain beliefs about births. According to these beliefs, a pregnant woman should taste whatever she smells. If she does not, it is believed that the child will have the shape of whatever she did not taste. When the baby is born, one red and one yellow silk cover is laid on the baby’s crib to keep away the albasan (albasan is believed to be evil spirits). When the baby is forty days old, it must take a 40-day shower; when the baby is six months old, there is a 6-month henna ceremony. These traditions still exist.
Turkish Cypriots also have certain beliefs about death. When someone dies, people who come to visit the relatives were fed. On the third day, helva was made and taken to the mosques and distributed to those who were there. For three days after the burial and every Saturday from then on until the 40th day, the family of the deceased would take holy water to the grave and spil it over the grave. These traditions are still carried out by the majority of the community.
THE SACRIFICE OF THE RAM
Turkish Cypriots sacrifice ram for religious reasons during Bairam celebrations, and to make a wish come true. During the sacrifice, sometimes candles are offered to the holy martyrs.
Ramadan (Fasting meals):
- İftar (The meal Muslims eat at sunset to break their fast during Ramadan. It often begins with a date)
- Sahur (meal before dawn during ramazan)
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There are many dishes used for iftar. Some of them are:
- Lentil soup
- Fried eggs with minced meat
- Stew vegetable dishes
- Chicken potatoes in the oven
- Lamb chops
- Chick peas
- Pirhohu
- Plavuna
- Bitta bread
- Güllaç
- Puddings
- Kullurikya (koullouri)
- Cake
- Semolina cake
- Kadayif
The Sahur meal includes:
- Dates
- Porridge
- Bitta bread
- Soup
- Fruit
Iftar is a good occasion for the family and friends to eat and celebrate together.
Bayram Meals:
Şeker bayramı:
During Şeker bayram, Turkish Cypriots make tel-kadayıfı and offer it to their guests. It is also common to offer candies. When the family members come together at lunchtime, they eat either hırsız kebabı (kleftiko) or chicken with potatoes baked in the oven.
Kurban bayramı:
Religious and rich people must sacrifice an animal and distribute the flesh to the poor, according to the customs. They must also offer fried meat to their guests. In some cases, pilavuna is also offered.
Lunch is also important during kurban bayramı. Family members enjoy the meat dishes.
New Year’s eve:
In the old days, Turkish Cypriots used to cook chicken and macaroni cooked in broth.
Beside these practices, there are widely spread superstitions about owls. According to these beliefs, if an owl gags in the street at night, a member of the family is going to die.
II- THE HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT OF THE CUISINE
During the prehistoric era, people were hunters and gatherers. In order to survive, they had to hunt and gather plants.
Eventually they learned to make fire and cook, they learned how to bring up animals and cultivate plants. They started cooking and preserving what they cooked.
They learned how to make food tastier, and how to make it look as attractive as it tasted , and this is how gastronomy started.
Later gastronomy developed in Rome and China. The concept was spread to Japan, Korea and Southeast Asia through trade, wars and cultural aspirations.
In the west, gastronomy started with Renaissance. During the reign of Louis the XIV, XV, XVI , French cuisine got refined and reached its peak.
III- THE TURKISH CYPRIOT CUISINE’S INFLUENCES
Middle East:
Vegetables: carrot, cilantro, cucumber, aubergine, lettuce, onion, spinach, radish
Fruit: apple, pear, prune, quince, grape, melon
Grains and barleys: wheat, broad bean, lentil, and rye
Southeast Asia:
Vegetable: sugar cane
Fruit: banana, orange, peach
Grains and barleys: rice, soybean
Meat: pork , chicken
Mediterranean Region:
Vegetable: white cabbage, cauliflower, parsley, asparagus
Fruit: fig
Grains and barleys: pea, chickpea
Meat: sheep, pork, goat
Africa:
Fruit: Watermelon
IV- TURKISH CYPRIOT CUISINE
Turkish Cypriot cuisine has been influenced by the unique characteristics of different nations that ruled the island and has become an interesting combination. The greatest influence came from the Turkish cuisine and the unique tastes of Anatolia.
Some plant and animal products were imported to the island and became part of the cuisine. Therefore, tourists coming from close-by countries feel at home because of the similarities of the cuisine.
A community’s cuisine is one of indicators of its identity
V- THE EATING HABITS OF THE TURKISH CYPRIOTS
Turkish Cypriots have three main meals: breakfast, lunch and dinner. In between meals they eat fruit, have coffees and cold drinks (fruit juice, lemonade, coke, etc) in the summer.
Drinking tea is not common. They drink tea in the morning, at night in winter and when they have a cold. Turkish Cypriot tea is prepared in a different way to Turkish tea, as it is not brewed. Mint, anise, herbal tea or regular tea is added while the water is boiling,. For a good smell, some spices, such as clove and cinnamon are added.
Coffee is undoubtedly the most common drink for Turkish Cypriots. Coffee is prepared the Cypriot way having a lot of the coffee powder settle down. Guests are usually asked whether they will drink coffee first. Nescafe and other types of coffee are also consumed in small quantities.
1. BREAKFAST
There are many varieties of breakfast . Usually tea with or without milk is drunk and eggs, olives, bread, halloumi, butter and jam are eaten , and sometimes the some soup left over from the previous night. mall pieces of bread are added into the soup. In addition, different kinds of pies, such as olive pie, halloumi pie, sesame oil pie and sausage pie are also consumed. Sandwiches with sausage, cheese, can beef, tomato, cucumber and pickles, are also common. Sometimes buns, green olives and shish kebab are eaten as breakfast.
2. BETWEEN BREAKFAST-LUNCH
Working people have coffee at work, whereas housewives meet up for a coffee in each other’s houses after cleaning up and before cooking lunch.
3. LUNCH
The quantity of food cooked for lunch is usually enough for both lunch and dinner. If the the woman of the house, who usually is the one who cooks, she prepares the meal the night before. If working people do not have time to go home for lunch, they eat something convenient at work or have lunch in relatives’ houses. Dishes for lunch are usually stews. Turkish Cypriots tend to eat what is left over for dinner, unless it is something fried or deep-fried. They usually accompany the meal with rice and yogurt or salad, depending on the meal. Salads have a rich variety of ingredients and they are usually cut in small pieces. Turkish Cypriot people seem to not like meals without meat. Fruit is eaten right after meals. During the hot summer months, halloumi along with bread, melon and watermelon, can replace breakfast or lunch. Melon and watermelon are usually eaten chilled.
After lunch people talk about current issues either at the table or in the living room, while they have a coffee.
4. BETWEEN LUNCH AND DINNER
In the summer siesta is very common after the afternoon coffee. In the summer chilled watermelon or melon is served before the coffee. 5. DINNER
Dinner is a great issue for those who have to prepare it. If there is no food left over from lunch, or lunch was something fried, that is not usually eaten as dinner, dinner has to be prepared . Generally in the winter lentils, tarhana, vegetable or rice soup is cooked. After the soup, grilled meat or breakfast-style dinner is served.
During the summer vegetable based meals are preferred. Meat products are either accompanied with vegetables, or eaten alone followed by melon and watermelon. lLettuce, cilantro, celery, cauliflower, radish and cabbage are the vegetables usually used.
In addition, a variety of kebab, accompanied with salad and yoghurt is bought from specialised shops to be eaten at home. Pastries also are often bought from bakeries.
Family members usually have their meals all together. If there are any guests, people pay special attention to the table setting. Women relatives usually help set the table. Food is brought to the table in big serving plates. Everyone eats as much as he or she wants. After dinner fruit is usually consumed, such as mandarins, oranges or bananas.
On cold winter nights, corn, nuts and chestnuts is also consumed. In the villages salted broad beans are baked in the bread oven.
VI- PREPARATIONS FOR THE WINTER
Since winters are not very cold in Cyprus, the preparations they require are few. When the tomatoes are abundant, people make tomato paste. In addition, tarhana is made and halloumi jars are filled.
In the past, meat was fried and stored. Since each house has acquired a fridge, this preparation does not occure.
Recipes for tarhana and halloumi are:
1. THE MAKING OF TARHANA
On the first day, yoghurt is to be placed into a clay container. Milk is to be added every day for one week. An amount of wheat or grain equal to that of mixture is to be added and mixed at the end of the week. The mixture is then to be boiled in a big boiler, while continuously being stirred strongly with a 70-80 cm long wooden spoon, so that it does not stick to the bottom. ,. Boiling time depends on the intensity of the fire. The fire is to be put off when the wheat starts to soak in the yoghurt. The mixture is then to be emptied into another container To be left to cool down. Once it is cool enough as not to burn the hands, it can be shaped into tarhana pieces and left to dry. This procedure is called cutting tarhana. In the villages of Paphos, tarhana is cut with a bamboo stick. Tarhana is then to be left in the sun to dry.
Dried mint can also be added into the mixture while stirred with wheat, in order to improve the smell.
2. THE MAKING OF HALLOUMI
Add yeast to some warm milk. Then stir and when the mixture is soft, warm it up in a boiler. During this process, water will evaporate and the hard parts will settle. It must then be pressed against a thick piece of cloth (The residue is to be used to make noro). After being pressed , the hard parts are to be heated up to 90-95 °C and cooked. Then they are to be salted and fresh mint is added. When they cool down, store them in jars. Noro, which is the water left over from the pressing procedure is to be added along with salt. Jars are to be carefully sealed and stored in a cool place for forty days.
3. STORING VINE LEAVES
Vine leaves are either put in salty water or frozen in order to be preserved to be used in the winter.
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VII. WILD PLANTS
1. HERBAL TEA (Salvia)
It is used for:
a) Making tea
b) Salads and dishes
c) Grilled meats
d) Soups and sauces
e) Cooked and preserved meat
2. ANISE (Pimpinellia)
It is used for:
a) Making tea (It is especially recommended for colds) b) Adding taste to other types of tea.
3. LAZMARI (Rosmarinus Officinaliedir)
It is used for:
a) Making tea on (It is recommended for bronchitis)
b) Adding taste to other types of tea.
4. SWEET BASIL (Osymum Basilicum L)
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It is believed to keep the evil eye away; therefore there is at least one pot of sweet basil in each house.
It is used fresh or dried in soups or other meals, to add flavor.
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5. MERSIN (Vaccinium Myrtillue L)
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It is used:
a) As a fruit
b) fresh or dried in pies and other dishes .
6. MARAHO (Foneniculum)
It grows on the northwest end of the island.
It is used for:
a) Making maraho soup.
b) Preparing dishes, salads and especially pies.
