cyprus food stuffs > History, Traditions & Myths > Olive and Oil
“In the age of globalization and integration of cultures,
the olive
remains one of the few unchanged elements of the Mediterranean
Civilization…”
(Sophocles Hadjisavvas: 1)
”Old as
human existence, sacred like the inexplicable mysteries, preciously
unique. It can be characterized as a gift from the Gods to their people.
The olive tree emerges from the dawn of pre-history and finding optimal
circumstances, it rises in the Mediterranean landscape as a unique and
paramount element of its view; as a companion and nurturer of the
inhabitants; as a symbol of worship, as a Tree – Land – Human walking
together in a tied embracement for 5000 years and more, creating a
civilization of high aesthetics: the civilization of the olive tree.”
(Mirsini Lampraki-Mathaiaki, 1999 p. 33)
The olive tree is one of the most ancient cultivated trees in the world. Without a doubt its history begins before the invention of writing (Hurley, 1919 cited by Apostolos Kiritsakis, 1996:451). Cyprus has been rich in olives and olive oil since ancient times according to Strabo (63BC – 25 AD) (Claude Cobham, 1908:3). The “Cypriot olive oil” was “digestive” and therefore famous and in great demand.
The olive tree has the ability of revival and vigorousness even through its droughty and burnt logs. This was the reason why the olive tree, since antiquity, has been the symbol of life, resurgence and light. For the Greeks it was a divine gift and constituted a benchmark for their civilization. They regarded the olive tree as a symbol of euphoria, purification, victory and honor and believed that their Gods were born under the branches of an olive tree.
According to Greek mythology, the olive tree was planted by goddess Athena in Acropolis and therefore was her holy tree. It was seen as a symbol of peace and reconcilement not only in this life but also in Hades. It was given as a last offer for the rest and sereneness of the souls (Mirsini Lampraki-Mathaiaki, 1999 p.34). The olive tree was so precious that there were very strict laws, even death, against the people who destroyed this tree.
Olive oil has always held an essential place in the Mediterranean. Our ancestors from the very beginning realized the utility and importance of this commodity and used it in numerous ways. There were statements from ancient times that olive oil was one of the most basic elements of their nutrition. They used it for accompanying different dishes or cooking other foods with its help. “In the Classical world olive oil was recommended as an ingredient for sauces, soups and for frying”. Olive oil was universally used as a protective ointment for athletes and as a basic product for every day body care. Perfumed oils are mentioned in the correspondence between the king of Alasia and the Pharaoh of Egypt during the 14th century B.C. Olive oil was used as raw material for the production of soap shortly before 1000 A.D (Sophocles Hadjisavvas:1-2).
Hippocrates (5th century B.C.), the father of medicine, and Dioscorides (1st century A.D.) suggested the use of olive oil as a remedy for colds and sores. Oil also was essential in every day life for lighting and heating. In addition, it was used in wooden and metal mechanisms of Roman weaponry and in textile manufacture (Sophocles Hajisavvas:2).
The uses of olive oil and its symbolisms
In traditional Greek Cypriot weddings wreaths were made with olive tree branches because of the belief that through this wreath God’s blessings were transmitted to the couple. There was a similar practice in ancient Greece when the winners of the Olympic games were crowned with kotinos (a crown made with the branches of a wild olive tree). The Greeks believed that through this crown all the divine talents were transmitted and that was why the winners of the Olympic games were holy and respected individuals.
Olive trees and olive oil were linked to various symbolisms, beliefs and superstitions and had a leading role in different religious or magical rites. A plethora of these beliefs and customs that appear nowadays are rooted in ancient times. The Orthodox Church, especially, borrowed a vast number of these symbolic events, which are observed even up until today. Olive oil was used from old times as a means of divination and as a powerful weapon against the evil spirits. When olive oil was mixed with water it was used to protect someone from the evil eye that could cause harm . Another custom found nowadays is the kapnisma, meaning “smoking”. Leaves from the olive tree stay for forty days in church, from the Sunday of Vaia (Κυριακή των Βαΐων) or Olive Sunday, as it is also kown , which is the Sunday before Easter. These leaves are put in the kapnistiri (earthen-plated vessel) with cinder and used for the kapnisma of the house and its people. This practice is considered as a sign to the evil spirits. Additionally, it is a marital custom that the groom and the bride be “smoked” by their parents for the same reason. For this purpose there is a couplet saying: “φωνάξετε της μάνας του/της, του τζιύρη του/της να ‘ρτει να τον/την καπνίσει” (call his/her mother, father to come and “smoke” him/her). The mother and the father of the groom and the bride holding a kapnistiri, which in this case is a silver-plated vessel, “smoke” their son or daughter. They pass the kapnistiri with a circular motion over the groom’s or the bride’s head and then hold it in front of them to “smoke” themselves. This action of “smoking one’s self” involves the use of the right hand with the palm half-closed as if one is literally trying to bring the smoke to their side and catch it, after which one crosses oneself three times.
In some villages, according to an old lady, people, especially women and children, used to put leaves from the olive tree in the shape of a cross and placed them on the new mother and the newborn’s pillow so as to prevent evil. On New Year’s Day they used to throw olive leaves in the fireplace to see if a specific person loves them. The following words (there are some other versions used in other villages) go with this custom :
“Αη Βασίλη, Βασιλιά, δείξε και φανέρωσε
για τούτη τη δουλειά αν μ΄ αγαπά ο τάδε”
(“Saint Basil the King, show and intimate,
for this job, whether [person’s name] loves me”)If the leaf turned upside down this was a sign of love.
Olive oil, especially used in the first elision, (in this case there is no use of hot water) called virgin olive oil, which was stored in front of the icon stand , had healing abilities for people . It was also used in traditional medicine. A superstition about olive oil used to exist, for example it was forbidden to lend olive oil to someone at night because it was considered as bad luck for his or her home.
Olive oil and human soul
The candle flame burning by the church and home icon stand uses olive
oil, as do the ones in cemeteries. This is a symbol of the divine light,
the light of uppermost truth. The olive oil used in church candles has
healing abilities, so it is used in traditional medicine. It is thought
that the aching part of the body was relieved when this sacred oil was
used. The flame of the candle is also connected with the human soul, and
there is a phrase saying : “Μέχρι εδώ ήταν το καντήλι του”, which means,
“His candle was meant to last until this moment”. In many Greek Cypriot
households there is a small icon stand with a candle in front of it,
because of the belief that the light protects, illuminates and strengthens
the soul. In orthodox cemeteries, under the cross, relatives used to keep
the candles lit for at least forty days. There is a belief that when a
candle is out it is a bad omen. Besides, there is another custom for
people who lost their lives in car accidents. Relatives used to build a
small icon stand at the point of the road where the car accident happened
and put a candle in front of the icon. We can find the same custom as an
offering to a Saint.
Orthodoxy and Olive Oil
“The majority of olive mills were built in the precinct of the churches or in the yard of many monasteries. This vicinity is based on a very important reason. That is, during the Ottoman period in Cyprus, the Orthodox Church was the greatest landowner and owned huge fields with olive trees. Another interesting point is the co-existence of olive mills with schools, which were also built in the precincts of the churches. The reason was that education was under the Church’s control during the Ottoman period.” (Euphrosyne Egoumenidou, 1996:325).
Olive oil has a leading role in Orthodox churches’ customs. We can find a plethora of uses and symbolisms. According to Father Linos Petrides “in Genesis, after the cataclysm of Noah, God sends a pigeon with an olive branch in its mouth, which symbolizes the reconcilement between God and people. The Kings and Prophets of Jews were anointed with Holy Oil and were called kechrismeni (person who has been anointed with the Holy Oil). This action means that the mercy and the blessings of God were given to these people and in this way they were God’s representatives on Earth. Something similar is done today at a Christening”. Furthermore, “it is a tradition in our Church to light candles in front of the Holy Icons. Lighting candles means that we are looking for God’s blessings, love and compassion. That is the reason we are taking oil from a Saint’s candle and smearing it across the aching part of our body doing the sign of a cross. The light from the candle also symbolizes Christ himself, because Christ said: “I am the light of the world”. In addition, this light represents the flame of our faith which must be inextinguishable in our whole life”.
Oil is used in three aspects of the Church. These are: Christening (Vaptisi),
“Holy Anoint” (Agio Miros) and “Holy Oil” (Agio Euxelaios).
Olive oil in the Agio Miros “represents the gifts of the Holy
Spirit, and is a means of showing the baptism of the spirit, not of the
body”, according to Father Sotiris. “In the old days and even today,
wrestlers would smear their bodies with olive oil in a way that they could
escape their enemy. “We, as Christians”, according to Father Linos Petrides
, “symbolically smear the body before the baptism so as to look for God’s
mercy and kindness for the neophyte and also to fight in life’s battle, so
that we can escape the devil”. The other mystery of Holy Oil “is done,
especially for sick people, for mental and physical cure”.
Olive oil is also present in burial customs. Before the burial of the dead
person, the priest spills out olive oil, water and soil, saying: “you are
earth and you are going to earth”. Apart from its symbolical role, there is
also a practical one to this, according to Father Sotiris David. Oil helps
micro-organisms to develop in order to dissolve the body. As we have
mentioned earlier, relatives used to keep candles lit for dead people,
especially for the first forty days. In pre-Christian times people used to
have the same custom and this was based on the belief that dead people
needed light for seeing at night. This ancient custom, like many others, was
transformed by orthodox tradition and carries a different meaning. The two
priests I have interviewed gave me different explanations for this. Father
Linos said: “We are appealing for God’s forgiveness and grace” and Father
Sotiris said: “the light symbolizes the spirit of the good Christian. It is
a struggle against forgetfulness of the Christian spirit”.
On Saints’ days and memorial services believers used to offer bread, wine and olive oil to the church. On Saints’ days the priest blesses these three elements saying: “God, give celebrants these goods so that they remember and respect You”. The celebrants offer pieces of bread to the other believers and they keep the rest, whereas the church keeps the wine and olive oil. “When olive oil, but also the other two elements, are given to the Church, they must be of the best quality. It is forbidden for them to be consumed or sold, because they are an offer, a libation to the divine and an appeal for God’s forgiveness through the priest’s prayers ” (Anna Mathaiou, 1996:424).
Greek orthodox fasting
There are certain days or periods in the Greek Orthodox fasting, when olive oil is forbidden. The paradox is that the consumption of olives is permitted but olive oil is prohibited. “The reason behind this is that the quantity of oil in an olive is small and negligible, while olive oil, apart from being rich in itself, can be used for the preparation of many tasty and richly flavored dishes, which are, of course, meant to be avoided during fasts” (Egoumenidou & Michaelides, 2000: 58). There are also many other deeper explanations that Father Linos and Father Sotiris gave. “Avoiding olive oil and other tasty foods that are being made using this ingredient is like taking a kind of mental exercise. Being hungry and thirsty is easier than to lead yourself into mental hunger and thirst. This way you are helping your body to revive, you become more sensitive and you can think more clearly about issues concerning your soul”.
Olive tree and nutrition
Since antiquity, different sources referred to the consumption of olive oil as one of the basic elements of people’s diet. It accompanied other foodstuffs or was used as an ingredient for making other dishes. In Greek Cypriot cuisine there are two types of olives. The first type is mavres, meaning black. It is the color that olives take when they are mature. They are kept in jars and preserved in salt. The second kind is kolimbates (meaning “swimming”) or tsakkistes (meaning crushed). They are kept in jars and preserved in salt and lemon. For centuries, olives and olive oil were the ordinary food for the Cypriots. Many of the older generation tend to repeat: “The only food we had to eat was a piece of bread with some olives”. The few vegetables they had at the time were consumed together with bread and olives and wine or zivania was drunk, which ensured the basic elements of their nutrition. Their financial situation made them abstemious and forced them to consume products that could be easily cultivated or easily found in nature. They managed to have a good and proper diet, which was the best for the human body and gave a person’s health and longevity. The scientists call this the “Mediterranean Diet” which was developed into the Mediterranean Diet Pyramid and adopted by the World Health Organization (Trichopoulou & Vasilopoulou: 1).
The Rockefeller Foundation conducted one of the primary nutrition projects, which was carried out in Greece in 1948, on the island of Crete. The results showed a tight relationship between the diet of local people and longevity. This relationship has captured the interest of many Greek and foreign scientists (Efi Delmouzou:1) andnowadays, there is a plethora of researches that prove that olive oil combined with vegetables and generally the Mediterranean Diet protects people from a wide range of chronic diseases like: heart diseases, cancer, diabetes, and obesity. Olive oil also protects old people from cognitive deterioration and helps give longevity (European Olive Oil Medical Information Library).
The universal acknowledgment of the Mediterranean diet as a model of healthy nutrition implies the recognition of the traditional Greek Cypriot cuisine. There is a universal effort from a vast number of scientists to inform people about the advantages of this diet and persuade them to follow it. On the other hand, people who know about this diet because it is a part of their nutritional inheritance may ignore it, due to their changed lifestyles. The Greek Cypriot community has not been sensitive enough to all these efforts because of the rapid transformation of ideas, beliefs and life-style during the last few decades. Our failure to appreciate the value and significance of our traditional cuisine as well as the lack of interest towards the identification, cataloguing and development of the Greek Cypriot cuisine and culinary art endangers our tradition. There needs to be further consciousness in cultural and historical terms as well as in economic and social sectors.
Olive tree and the Greek-Cypriot State
The olive tree and its oil are deeply rooted in Greek Cypriot culture. In people’s conscience, the olive tree and its oil hold a special place, as we have already seen in other sections, not only in the cuisine but also in the island’s wider culture. The meanings of the olive tree inspired the designers of the two symbols of Cyprus: its emblem and its flag.
Olive branches play a leading role in the emblem of Cyprus. A pigeon holding an olive branch in its mouth “is a wish” representing the much-desired peace between the Greek Cypriot and Turkish Cypriot communities. Two bigger olive branches crown the pigeon, which symbolizes the honor and the unity. This emblem is used on one side of the cent coins and in all official documents. Moreover, the Cyprus flag , which is used by the Greek Cypriot community and was designed by a Turkish Cypriot, has olive branches under the map of Cyprus. The flag depicts its symbolisms from nature as it is a common feature to the whole island.
Olive oil found in ordinary expressions
Olive oil is found in many expressions that Greek Cypriots use in their daily lives .
The most usual are:
Μου έχουν βγάλει το λάδι μου[=they have extracted my oil from me] which means “I have suffered many hardships”. This phrase is based on the way olive oil is extracted from the fruit. It needs pressing until the fruit becomes a pulp.
Μη ρίχνεις λάδι στη φωτιά [=Don’t pour oil into the fire] basically meaning “Don’t make things even worse”. In a literal sense, putting oil on fire makes the fire stronger. We use this phrase to show that things can go bad and can become even worse from our meddling.
Έκανε λαδιά [=he/she has produced an oil stain] means “He/she did a foolish thing”. A drop of olive oil misquotes the image of a cloth and many times remains permanently. This phrase shows that somebody did a stupid thing and therefore deviates. This deviance is considered to leave a social scar.
H θάλασσα είναι λάδι [=The sea is oil] means “The sea is peaceful”.
This expression is based on the fact that olive oil is a liquid which absorbs disorder and stays calm. It is a phrase used when the sea is calm and peaceful.
Τον έχουν λαδώσει[=They have applied oil on him] means “He has been bribed”.
This expression is said when somebody accepts money or a gift which affects his decision.
Να σε κάνω λάδια – ξύδια[=I will make you oils and vinegars] means “I will carry you on my shoulders”. It was a phrase used when playing with young children. In the old days, they would carry the olive oil and vinegar on their shoulders holding bags made of animal skin. They would hold young children in the same way while playing.
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