cyprus food stuffs > History, Traditions & Myths > Wine
The ancient history of wine
“Cyprus may be described as the most viticulture country of the world” (L.S. Karamichalis, 1993:7). According to the Cypriot archaeologist Vassos Karageorghis, “the origin of vine and wine is not known, but Cyprus was a vine growing country where the wines have been in abundant and were blissfully enjoyed since some time early in the second millennium B.C.” (Vassos Karageorghis, 1993:32). Archaeological and historical evidence from the earliest writings (the travellers, the poets and the conquerors who came to Cyprus in later years) show that wine has played an important role throughout Cyprus’ long history. Strabo calls Cyprus åõïßíïò(evinos) which means “abounding in wine” (Claude Cobham, 1908:3). Excavations at Kato Paphos revived mosaics on vines and wines as well as “the first wine drinkers” who are represented in mosaics in an ancient Roman villa (2nd /3rd century A.D.) called the “House of Dionysos”. Certain coins dating to the 3rd century B.C. were found and bear on one side the picture of a vine, “very probably to symbolize the source of the island’s wealth”. A two-handled drinking bowl was also discovered, dating back to 550-530 B.C., bearing the inscription ×áßñå êáé ðßåé åõ (khere ke pii ev) which means: “Be happy and drink well”. This inscription is now used as a motto by one Greek Cypriot company, which produces wine and spirits (P. V. Kontopirghou, 1963:13).
The History of Wine in Medieval Times
In 1191 Richard the Lion Heart took over Cyprus and sold it, in the same year, to the order of the Knights of the Temple, who established their “Grand Commadarie” at Kolossi, near Limassol, where they built a castle known today as the Kolossi Castle. The Cypriot wine Commandaria was first produced by them, and the name and the wine have not been changed ever since. “The Commandaria produced now has the oldest tradition of any individually named wine in the whole world” (P.V. Kontopirghou, 1963:15). According to a legend “Commandaria was crowned by King Philippe Augustus, the King of France, as the “Apostle of wines” as early as 1223 or even earlier” (P. Psaras, 1993:91). As it is seen in the descriptions of many travelers and writers, this wine has been known from the Middle Ages because of its special quality and excellent characteristics. Wilbrand von Oldenburg, Count of Oldenburg, in 1212 was so impressed with the sweet wines that he described them as follows: “The wines of this island are so thick and rich that they are sometimes specially prepared to be eaten like honey with bread” (Claude Cobham, 1908:14). Another reference in relation to wine is the story of the Selim II who decided to attack and conquer Cyprus because he loved its strong wines. He had the nickname “Selim the Sot” which explains his passionate attraction to wine (Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou: 1). Tomasso Porcassi in 1576 (Claude Cobham, 1908:162) wrote about Cyprus: “The island is rich indeed in all the fruits of the earth and its more useful products. Its wines are very luscious and wholesome; as they grow old they turn from black to white, they are fragrant and of pleasant taste. One finds wine of 80 years and more, and a vintage that had graced a grandee’s table, gets fresh honor as a medicine, for its health giving and preservative virtues, which are those of a balsam”.
Other visitors attribute great strength to local wines. The Augustinian monk Jacob de Verona who visited Cyprus in 1335 mentions: “ A native wine called Marea, the heat of which, if it were drunk neat, would burn a man’s entrails…anyone who drinks it must fill the glass by three quarters of water to one of wine , and even so it is strong enough” (Claude Cobham, 1908:18). In 1683 a Dutch man, Van Bryn said : “There are red wines and white wines, both excellent, but so strong, that for ordinary use you need to put twice as much water as wine. I do not remember ever meeting with stronger wine” (Claude Cobham, 1908: 243).
Traditional ways of storing
Wine was traditionally kept in large earthen jars, the inside of which was coated with pitch, to prevent the earth from drawing the wine, and it was also transported in leather skins, also coated inside with pitch, to prevent it from pouring out (Euphrosyne Rizopoulou- Egoumenidou: 2). This taste of pitch was detestable for the European consumers and this was an issue which was discussed in a negative way . The wide consumption of wine is proven by the huge earthen jars called pitharia, still found in the cellars of traditional houses in the wine producing villages and monasteries all over the Cyprus.
Monasteries and winemaking
There is a long tradition of wine making in monasteries. Many of them, like Trooditissa, Chysoroyiatissa and Kykkos monastery were built in mountain regions, where plenty of vines were cultivated, and where the production of wine has a long history. Monasteries became centres for research and learning about wine as well as many other subjects .
Viticulture in Cyprus and the production of wine
There are about “fifteen varieties of vines in Cyprus that may be considered indigenous to the island, having been present for an extremely long time and many of which are cultivated nowhere else in the world (Pierre Galet, 1993:61). The two dominant varieties are: xynisteri, which is the most widely cultivated white variety in Cyprus and mavro, also known as “Local Black”, which forms the basis for all red and black wines produced. Some other varieties are: malaga, ophthalmo, spourtiko and kanella.
The traditional winepresses are still known with the ancient name, Linos and were still used a few decades ago. Mariti’s description of the pressing of the grapes is very informative: “Then by hand with shovels they take up the grapes from the terraced floor and move them to a room they call “Linos”, which slopes down on one side and is polished or paved with tiles or covered with boards. Here they throw the grapes and trample them and beat them with mallets […] , then gradually put them through the wine press (patitiri) and they repeat this operation once or twice if necessary” (Giovanni Maritti, 1772:48).
The process of making wine in modern wineries differs from traditional wineries in the equipment used. Part of the investment made by wineries is the purchase and installment of new equipment and experimentation in order to make the production of wine better, more efficient and of high quality.
Process of Making Commandaria
Commandaria is made the traditional way, using a method called mana or , as established in enology jargon, “solera system”: the wine of new production is mixed with older wine achieving an improved quality. The process of letting a wine get old is used in producing Commandaria , according to Mr. Demos Thomas, Sales Manager of one of the largest Cypriot wineries. It is stored in oak barrels for over 10 years in order to have its taste softened and capture the various scents of the wood.
Process of Making White, Red and Rose Wines
Preparing a good wine depends on various factors. The three most important ones among them are the temperature, the light and the noise. In order to prepare white, red and rose wines, a different process is used, depending on the specific qualities of each type . In order to prepare white wines, the juice of grapes must be placed in special pressure tanks, which regulate the carbon dioxide released because of the fermentation process, since this gas has the ability to remore the various scents of grapes’ juice. White wine is best consumed when it is fresh, usually within a year from its production, whereas for red and rose wine the process of getting older is used. They are left in oak barrels for 6to 9 months and for two years at least in bottle placed in underground wine cellars, according to Mr. Demos Thomas.
Economic Importance of Wine
The history of wine in Cyprus is as ancient as the history of the island and that is why vines and wines are closely related to people’s attitude, customs and way of life in general. “Even today, the vine sector constitutes one of the most important agro-industries in Cyprus. Almost one quarter of the agricultural population of the island is engaged in viticulture, at least part-time, as a supplementary source of income” (Nearchhos Roumbas, 1993:47).
Vine products are one of Cyprus’ major export products. The local market absorbs about 20% of the total production, while the rest is exported to overseas markets, especially to Germany, France, the United Kingdom, Switzerland, Sweden and Greece. Vines grow on more than 13% of the island’s total cultivated area and contribute about 7% of the total value of agricultural production (Nearchos Roumbas, 2000:1). In the last few years, though, the wine industry is shrinking, mostly due to bad weather conditions, such as drought which occurs in Cyprus and also because many vine-growers have abandoned the industry because of the low income of the profession. This is why efforts are made and thousands of pounds have been invested by the four large wineries KEO, ETKO, LOEL and SODAP, in order to expand Cypriot vineyards and extinct the danger of not having raw material for the production of wine. Another goal set by the wineries is to produce new varieties and improve the quality of Cypriot wines, based on various researches, which have proven that mixing two different types of grapes for the production of wine has a much better result.
Social Aspect of Wine
Wine is deeply rooted in Cypriot tradition and holds a leading role in the daily life of many Cypriots. It is also connected directly to various customs. Wine and zivania are the only drinks that farmers had to keep warm on cold winter nights. In addition, there used to be groups of men in the coffee shops, drinking wine or zivania, eating and treating their guests meze.
The oldest and best wine was kept for the most important events of the family life. Mariti described a custom that farmers used to perform after the birth of their children. They used to bury a well sealed jar full of wine. This wine was kept until the day of his or her wedding to be served at the wedding feast, and distributed among relatives and friends (Giovanni Mariti, 1769 referred by Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou: 14).
Wine is closely related to religious customs and rituals . Believers offer commandaria to the Church for the Holy Communion. In this case wine is called Nama and it symbolizes the blood of Jesus Christ. When commandaria is given to the married couple by the priest during the wedding ceremony, it symbolizes the Êïéíü ÐïôÞñéï (Ôhe common glass), which means that as the couple drinks from the common glass , it should stay together and face the happy moments and the difficulties of their common life. Wine is also served in funerals (See Bread) as “consolation” and helps consol the ones who have lost a loved person.
Wine and Cypriot Cuisine
Wine was used in traditional cooking as a food preservative and especially for meat. Every family, used to slaughter a, which had been carefully looked after for six months up to Christmas . This practice was still used in many villages until the events of 1974. They used to make pasta (salted pieces of pork preserved in wine) and loukanika (sausages made of minced meat and various spices mixed with wine).
Wine is used by Mediterranean people as an ingredient in the preparation of many dishes. In Cypriot cuisine red wine is used as a tenderizer and to add flavor, because there is no need to preserve meat in wine any more. In many cases meat is soaked in wine for a couple of days before it is cooked. This how afelia, a stew of pork, is cooked, in coriander and red wine. There are plenty of Cypriot dishes cooked in wine : ktapodi krasato (Octopus in red wine), sikoti krasato (liver in wine sauce), mousakkas,(a dish of minced lamb, aubergine, potatoes, courgettes and béchamel sauce), kouneli stifadho (rabbit stew with onions).
Wine and health
Wine used to be used for medical purposes. In the old days and since antiquity people used to anoint the wounds with wine, to produce medicine, and use it in dietary programmes . Scientific experiments seem to agree with the ancient Greek motto Ïßíïò åõöñáßíåé êáñäßáí which means “Wine delights the heart”, because according to a big number of epidemiological studies, a moderate consumption of wine “reduces the risk of heart attack, improves memory, combats breast cancer and impotence” (Michael Downey, 2003:1). Wine increases the HDL (“good” cholesterol) and decreases the LDL (“bad” cholesterol). Red wine is considered better than white wine, because it contains grape seeds and skin (Michael Downey, 2003:2). In Europe especially there seems to be a new tendency called the “Red Revolution”, according to which red wine is consumed more than white wine (Demos Thomas, 2002:27).
Wine today
Nowadays, wine has a high status on the table in Cyprus and it is usually consumed on special events accompanying food with friends. 72% of the Cypriots consume wine mainly during winter, but the general assumption is that “Cypriots are not used to drinking wine” since the per capita annual consumption of wine is thirteen litres, including wine consumption by tourists. Therefore, a Cypriot consumes about seven litres of wine annually, a quantity too low for a country with a tradition in viticulture and wine making, compared to other Mediterranean countries such as France, in which the per capita annual consumption of wine is 75 litres, or Italy, in which it is 70 litres and Greece, in which it is 40 litres (Demos Thomas, 2002:19-21). The limited consumption of wine in Cyprus is due to the high temperatures most of the year and to the fact that Cypriots are not used to consuming wine unless there is a special occasion.
In Cyprus 57% of men and 44% of women consume wine. It is important to note that in urban areas more wine is consumed than in rural areas, and people of higher educational level and social rank consume more wine. In addition, people between 25-55 years of age consume bigger quantities of wine and the it appears that people drink more wine in restaurants, taverns and special receptions (Demos Thomas, 2002:19-21). These facts show general tendencies evident also in other countries, in which wine is linked to times of joy. Wine is not a beverage for daily consumption in Cyprus; it is rather linked to pleasure and to meals with friends . In addition, it is a beverage linked to love and hedonism since couples prefer it for their intimate moments. Wine carries values such as friendship, success, social acceptance and wealth, as market research shows. Cypriot and foreign advertisements reinforce social reality and redefine the established consumer standards.
During the past few years an increase in wine imports has been observed; in 1995 consumption of imported wine in Cyprus reached 2,5% , in 1998 it reached 4,9%, while for 2001 it reached 10% (Demos Thomas, 2002:26). There seems to be a tendency underestimate Cypriot products in Cyprus in general. According to the research aforementioned, Cypriots are willing to pay more money in order to consume a good wine, therefore “Cypriots prefer more expensive wines”.
The Qualities of the wine
Wine also
is preferred because it is low in alcohol content. It is believed to make
people relax and create a good mood without any negative consequences of
drunkenness. In addition, there is wide variety of tastes, helping
combine the right wine with each meal. Because of its soft and refined
taste, it keeps the balance between the various tastes and it does not
surpass them.
Bibliography
Cobham, Claude D., 1908. Excerpta Cypria. Material for a History of Cyprus. Cambridge.
Davies, Gilli, 1993. “Wine in Cyprus Cooking”. In: Vines and Wines of Cyprus. 4000 Years of Tradition. Limassol, pp. 122-135.
Galet, Pierre, 1993. “The Vines of Cyprus”. In: Vines and Wines of Cyprus. 4000 Years of Tradition. Limassol, pp. 60-72.
Karageorghis, Vassos, 1993. “The History of Wine in Cyprus”. In: Vines and Wines of Cyprus. 4000 Years of Tradition. Limassol, pp. 30-45.
Karamichalis, L., 1993. “Introduction”. In: Vines and Wines of Cyprus. 4000 Years of Tradition. Limassol, pp. 6-9.
Kontopirghou, P., February 1963. Cyprus: Food and Wine Through The Ages. Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Nicosia.
Mariti, Giovanni, (1772) 1984. Wines of Cyprus. Translated by Gwyn Morris, Athens, 1984.
Psaras, P., 1993. “The Apostle of Wines”. In: Vines and Wines of Cyprus. 4000 Years of Tradition. Limassol, pp. 90-105.
Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou, Euphrosyne. Vines and Wines in the Traditional Culture of Cyprus (18th-20th century).
Roumbas, Nearchos, 1993. “The Viticulture of Cyprus”. In: Vines and Wines of Cyprus. 4000 Years of Tradition. Limassol, pp. 47-59.
Roumbas, Nearchos. December 2000. The Wine Sector in Cyprus. Department of Agriculture.
Thomas Demos, August 2002. ¸êèåóç ÄéåõèõíôÞ ÔìÞìáôïò ÐùëÞóåùí ðñïò ôç Äéåýèõíóç ãéá ôçí Åðéôüðéá ÁãïñÜ (Report of the Sales Manager to the Manager of Local Market). ETKO LTD. Sales Department. Limassol.
